The truth of ＂sensitive muscles＂, why does repairing the track explode？ ｜ reveal it! ingredient

In recent years, the concept of "skin repair" has moved from a niche market dominated by professional dermatologists to the medical beauty, health beauty and retail skin care products industries.Repair barriers and improve skin health.It has become a hot spot in the functional skin care sector.

According to the data of Meiye Yan Research Institute, the sales volume of related products in 2022 (data source is Tmall Taobao) was 24.02 million, up 8.87% year-on-year; Total sales amounted to 4.83 billion yuan, up 9.36% year-on-year.

In the current skin care market, in addition to Winona, Zhiben and Yuze and other domestic brands specializing in sensitive muscles, old domestic products such as Nature Hall and Polaiya have also taken root in repairing the track, focused on the research and development of repair ingredients, and launched many popular items to seize the market dividend.

When investigating the repair products in the market, the author found a common phenomenon: that is, the brands and consumers don’t know the concepts of "repair" and "repair" clearly enough, and misuse and abuse are common. For example, Tmall launched a "hot list of repair cream", but when browsing, the author found that almost all the products in the list were named after "repair cream".

In fact, "repair" and "repair" are two different concepts. The Cosmetic Advertising Law states:Repair, focusing on recovery, replication and recovery, achieves recovery through repair. Repair, the focus is on protection, that is, protection. The repaired object is not damaged and has no prototype, but is defective.Repair is a process in which the body repairs and restores the defects formed after the loss of some cells and tissues caused by injury, and repair is just daily maintenance and basic nursing.

In this issue, C2CC Media X New Makeup launched a series of reports, "Let’s reveal the secret! Composition aims to reveal the development and trend of repairing track, especially the efficacy and application of some popular repairing components.

First, what does repair mean?

Before answering this question, we must start with the concept and function of skin barrier. Skin barrier is a physical barrier composed of sebum membrane and stratum corneum, which has the ability to maintain skin moisture and resist allergens, irritants and microorganisms. Once damaged, the barrier cannot play a protective role, which will lead to many types of skin problems, such as redness, itching, dryness and sensitivity.

At present, there are a variety of repair products on the market, and the marketing focus is also different, but in the final analysis, it is nothing more than making products around three ideas:

1. Repair the sebum membrane.Give the outer skin barrier a relatively closed space for self-repair.

For example, for people with poor tolerance, Yayang Special Cream only uses seven kinds of human-friendly formulas to simulate human sebum membrane, which plays a basic role in moisturizing and desensitizing.

2, repair the stratum corneum.That is to say, it supplements intercellular lipids in stratum corneum and reduces water loss.

For example, DKDK ceramide essence, mainly nano ceramide, with squalane and Centella asiatica, can repair the brick wall structure of skin and improve tolerance.

3, both internal and external repair. At present, most brands are no longer limited to a single repair path, and have almost achieved "internal and external repair" and received positive feedback from many consumers.

For example, Stafford Four-dimensional Repair Cream, from the physical, chemical, responsive, moisturizing four barriers for full repair.

Second, why did the repair track explode?

According to the report on the development trend of functional skin care industry in China in 2022, in the social media in 2021, the volume growth of repair and soothing ranked as TOP2 of functional skin care, reaching 137.3% and 51.3% respectively. In addition, various professional beauty projects are gradually widely known by consumers, and the demand for skin repair after photoelectric projects is also increasing.

At the same time, people with fragile barriers are often accompanied by problems such as dry skin, itching, redness and even inflammation, which puts forward more professional, scientific, safe and efficient requirements for the corresponding repair brands in the market.

Users said that the data released by the platform in 2022 showed that sensitivity, essence, repair and mask have become the hot contents of skin care notes, and the focus of Chinese skin care has gradually shifted from whitening and anti-aging to repair and moisturizing.

Why is the concept of sensitive muscle so hot in recent years, and major brands of repair products emerge in an endless stream? I think there are the following reasons:

1. Excessive skin care and medical beauty, changes in environment and lifestyle have led to a large population of sensitive muscle people in China.

A set of data from "Expert Consensus on the Treatment of Sensitive Skin in China" shows that one in every three women in China is sensitive muscle.

In 2021, major cosmetic brands advocated "strong acid peeling" one after another, and the trend of effective skin care such as early C and late A prevailed. Consumers who are eager for success and have not yet established scientific skin care cognition often ignore their own skin quality and skin problems, use unsuitable products, cause problems such as rotten face, and increase sensitive skin quality, making skin repair become the mainstream skin care demand.

In addition, modern young people have great work pressure, and excessive mental stress will also stimulate the skin and cause adverse stress. Long-term adverse stress will not only increase the level of corticosteroids, delay the recovery of skin barrier function, but also affect the normal metabolic function of skin, eventually leading to various skin problems.

The report "Research and Application of Skin Aging in Youshiyan People" indicates that the most significant sensitive factors of women in China are:Makeup remover, pressure mountain and stay up late madman.

Congenital sensitivity, coupled with the influence of the later lifestyle, is the main reason for the increasing number of sensitive muscles in Chinese people. According to the survey of the White Paper on Skin Barrier in 2022, nearly 90% of consumers have experienced skin barrier damage symptoms such as redness, tightness and desquamation within one year, and skin barrier damage has gradually become a normalized problem.

Therefore, barrier repair has attracted more and more attention from consumers, and the number of users searching for "barrier repair" and "repair" on platforms such as Taobao Tmall has also shown an upward trend.

2. With the enhancement of consumers’ awareness of skin care, the younger generation after 90′ s and 00′ s become the main consumers. Their relatively rich growth background, extensive knowledge and full rise of self-awareness pay more attention to the ingredients and efficacy behind the products.

Moreover, the younger generation’s awareness of beauty care and exquisite skin care has been significantly improved, and the skin care steps have become more refined and scientific. The skin care concept of "basic skin care+improvement of medical beauty" has been respected, and basic moisturizing and repairing skin care products have become daily needs.

3. In the post-epidemic era, people’s wearing masks for a long time and lifestyle changes have increased the incidence of problem skin, and abnormal work and rest have caused the body’s metabolic ability to decline, affecting melanin production and metabolism, reducing the repair ability of epidermal layer, causing endocrine confusion, and thus affecting skin health.

At present, many skin care brands have also seen changes in skin care trends and proposed "Skin barrier repair theory",research and development related skin barrier repair skin care products, mainly aroundMicrobial barrier, chemical barrier, physical barrier, immune barrierFour barriers put forward a scheme to solve the damage of skin barrier and establish skin defense mechanism.

Third, the current hot ingredients and products in the field of restoration

With the enhancement of consumers’ awareness of skin care and the deepening of their understanding of skin care products, the era of "concept hype" and "channel is king" has passed, and the whole beauty industry has also developed in the direction of standardization. The efficacy and ingredients have become the focus of consumers’ attention. Browsing the relevant search data, we found that there are 1.17 million notes about "repair ingredients" in Little Red Book, and the single topic about skin repair in Tik Tok has been played as high as 11.934 million times.

1. Centella asiatica:Known as "plant collagen", the active ingredient asiaticoside can promote the production of skin collagen, help wound heal and repair damage, and smooth skin. Asiaticoside can reduce the production of pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-1,MMP-1) and improve the repair of skin barrier. The user said that the report showed that in the trend analysis of ingredients and raw materials, the sound volume of Centella asiatica accounted for 17.14%, leading the repair, soothing and anti-allergic effects.

Representative product:Sisley All-round Emulsion upgraded version, extracted from five high-tech plants, and the concentration of Centella asiatica increased by 3500 times, repairing and enhancing the skin defense and barrier function, and strengthening the skin barrier from the inside out.

2, ceramide:Ceramide is a kind of lipid naturally existing in the skin, which forms a barrier on the skin surface, like a city wall, and is the most loyal protector of fragile cells. 40%~50% of sebum in human stratum corneum is composed of ceramide, which plays an important role in maintaining the moisture balance of stratum corneum and is considered as an excellent component for repairing skin barrier.

Representative brand:Xerox, a skin care brand developed by American dermatologists, focuses on skin barrier repair. Focusing on dry sensitive muscles, we define "moisturizing" as "repairing skin barrier". All products are rich in triple ceramides (1, 3 and 6-II), which helps to repair and strengthen the natural barrier of skin.

3. Recombinant collagen:Recombinant collagen generally refers to recombinant human collagen, which is prepared by DNA recombination technology, and its amino acid sequence can be designed and improved according to requirements. The gene sequence of recombinant collagen is highly consistent with that of human, and has good histocompatibility. It can be directly absorbed by human body and participate in the construction of collagen, helping to repair tissues and fill parts.

Representative product:Re-whitening collagen secondary polishing essence. Traditional collagen is extracted from animals, which is not only poorly absorbed, but also prone to rejection in the skin. However, the recombinant collagen produced by giant biological and other enterprises is obtained by genetic engineering and bioengineering, which overcomes the virus risk and rejection reaction, and is more effective. The Human-like bionic combination of recombinant collagen C5HR is introduced, and a three-dimensional collagen repair system is constructed to repair the damaged skin layer by layer from the inside.

With the skin repair becoming the "big outlet" in the future from the small race track, the development of domestic and foreign brands has also shown a trend of "rolling efficacy and research and development", and is committed to opening up the whole repair channel. Many medical and beauty brands have also changed their marketing models, expanding from a single cinema channel to the skin care market, deeply bundling with sensitive muscles and after-care of medical arts, and developing and launching a series of products suitable for daily repair. Huaxi Bio, as a raw material manufacturer of skin care products, is a forward-looking layout, and has successively launched repair brands such as Runbaiyan, Mibel and Quadi to seize the repair market.

In the sales list of Ali National Cosmetics in 2022, Polaiya and Winona ranked first and second and sixth respectively. In the GMV Top10 of Tik Tok skin care products, Polaiya, Winona, Zhiben, Kwadi and Runbaiyan are all on the list, which shows that repair products are so popular in the skin care market.

Deep interaction of "scientific research+medicine"

Help international brands to become professional

When comparing the repaired products at home and abroad, it is not difficult to find that international products generally have their own set of formula systems and technical patents, and most of them strongly support brands by means of "scientific research+medicine" and provide professional endorsements for them.

It is estimated that there are about 2 billion people suffering from chronic skin diseases in the world, and doctors are the fastest way for consumers to solve skin problems. As a century-old German skin care brand under the Beiersdorf Group, Yosemite has persisted in scientific research and innovation for many years, set up its own dermatology research and development center, conducted long-term resource sharing, research and development cooperation and clinical testing with top international dermatologists and scholars, and has patented components such as "Sympathetic" Xinfuyi and "Thiamidol" peptide Amydol. At the same time, Youselin is also committed to the long-term development in the China market, promoting brand building with the core idea of "medicine as the root and doctors as the foundation". It even set up a medical expert committee in China to discuss dermatological problems together with top dermatologists in China, and then passed Youselin products to doctors in all directions through experts, making Youselin the most trusted brand for doctors, and then recommending products to consumers through doctors, thus expanding the promotion channels.

Increase investment in research and development,

Support domestic products to compete with international brands

Relatively speaking, domestic brands still need to make continuous efforts in the research and development of repair products. Although the form of domestic public opinion has improved in recent years, the real situation is not optimistic.Most of the main raw materials rely on foreign raw material suppliers to import+blindly pursue hot ingredients. Most domestic products have no independent research and development capabilities, relying on the formula mechanism to do marketing promotion in the form of "big brand replacement", and the phenomenon of OEM and OEM is endless.

Therefore, increasing R&D investment and innovating patent components and technologies will become the only way to overtake domestic products in corners.

In terms of innovative research and development, Kerfumei is undoubtedly the leader among domestic brands, and it has its own specialized research technology and formula. According to the data of double 11 in 2022, during this period, not only the omni-channel sales increased by more than 130% year-on-year; On the Tmall platform, the sales of Fumei Tmall flagship store increased by more than 125% year-on-year, and the sales achieved excellent results in 3 minutes, 30 minutes and 40 minutes over the full cycle of 2021; It occupies the TOP1 of GMV in Tmall medical equipment, facial health, wound dressing, health care products and other categories.

Kerfumei has been rooted in the field of skin care for 12 years. It is a professional nursing brand with recombinant collagen as its core technical component and providing solutions to skin problems. Relying on the powerful scientific research strength of giant creatures and focusing on scientific research and development, Fumei continues to specialize in improving skin problems, regulating sub-health status of skin and repairing skin barriers.

At present, there are 33 different types of recombinant collagen in the recombinant collagen library of Juzi Bio, a company affiliated to Kerfumei, covering a variety of functions, and the effects can be superimposed and multiplied by bionic combination. Kerfumei added these recombinant collagen in different proportions in the products, and scientifically matched them to meet the different skin care needs of consumers.

Fourth, thinking about the development trend and path of repairing the track

1. Expand categories, from skin care to makeup.

In addition to focusing on cultivating skin care products, brands have gradually turned their attention to the make-up track, and are committed to creating "make-up and nourishing" beauty products. DewyLab focuses on pure make-up leaders, avoids using preservatives and flavors and fragrances, and launches a series of make-up products for sensitive muscles. The brand’s air cushion adds Portulaca oleracea extract, bisabolol and eight moisturizing factors to repair the skin barrier while applying makeup.

2, subdivide the repair products, which is more professional and scientific.

At present, consumers’ understanding of sensitive muscles is not comprehensive enough, and all skin abnormal symptoms are often classified as skin sensitivity for treatment. However, in fact, a considerable number of sensitive muscles have involved pathological problems and cannot be treated simply as ordinary sensitive skin. In this respect, the foreign skin care industry is obviously more professional and scientific.

Old brand cosmeceuticals such as Youselin and Dimasens have long been concerned about skin problems such as rose acne and seborrheic dermatitis, and have also launched corresponding repair products, so the domestic skin care industry should also make a forward-looking layout, imitate or learn from the ideas of foreign cosmeceuticals, and subdivide sensitive muscle repair products.

3. Provide more professional services.

At present, almost all repair brands are cooperating with professional organizations, owning their own laboratories and patented technologies, striving to provide scientific endorsement for products and pursue perfection and Excellence. However, while the brand is constantly exerting its strength on the product side, it should also be more refined and professional on the user service side. Shop customer service should have solid professional basic theoretical knowledge, answer and analyze skin problems for users in time, and provide some professional and authoritative tests at the same time.

Winona official website, for example, provided a skin test for consumers, and after the test, she gave a skin report and recommended suitable products. Perhaps, in the future, brands can also build their own offline consultation rooms and experience places to achieve the ultimate consumer experience service.

4. Cross-border cooperation with the medical and beauty industry

With the concept of "simplified skin care" deeply rooted in people’s hearts, consumers are well aware of the efficacy limitations of skin care products, and rely more on medical beauty to improve skin quality and improve skin condition. "Basic skin care+regular medical beauty" is gradually recognized and sought after by consumers, and industries such as Light medical cosmetology are also booming, and the era of universal skin care is accelerating. In view of this trend, various skin care brands can further explore the development path, innovate the cooperation form of medical and aesthetic institutions, and promote the further development of the industry.

Summary:At present, in the domestic skin care market, track repair is becoming more and more popular, and barrier repair has long been the focus of major brands’ marketing and promotion. But for brands, they should not just focus on "ingredients" and invest blindly in marketing, but should also think hard about how to become "long red" and make simultaneous efforts in patent research and development and technological innovation.